Lending a hand where it is needed

Tenorio is 71 years old. He migrated here to Panama from Colombia with his brother at the age of 12. He has never owned any personal identification or documentation bearing his name. He lives in a leaky, primitive thatch hut with 5 children, ages 6 to 13, and his elderly wife. Tenorio lost his right arm at the age of 33 from a snakebite, fur-de-lance, which developed ¨cancer¨ (probably gangrene). I felt ashamed when I realized that Tenorio had loaded the canoe himself, with only the help of the 13 year old boy. 90 concrete blocks, 7 sacks of cement, and several lengths of rebar, but I guess he´s use to it. He had also collected all the rock and sand from the river with his wife and carried it to the site where we would help him build a composting latrine. Most of the children that live with Tenorio are not even family; I guess they are orphans of a sort… common vagabonds in a community plagued with alcoholism and depravations of all kinds.

I awoke the morning after our first day´s work before dawn with no sign of Tenorio. He had gone to the river to bath, but was back soon to prepare breakfast for the children, a dim flashlight balanced in the crook of his neck over his right shoulder. Later, he would prepare breakfast for us, pork from the plastic bucket. The pig was slaughtered just 2 days ago, or was it 3, so I assumed it would be alright. I´d like mine well-done please. It was an uncommon treat for Tenorio and his ¨family.¨ Pork and rice. We had it 3 meals in a row.

Tenorio seems very pleased with it all. This will be the first composting latrine in the community, so proper maintenance will be critical if this simple technology is to be adopted by other families. In the meantime, everyone else will continue to do what they´ve done throughout time immemorial… poop in the river.

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Simple Pleasures

by Colleen

Say your praise of thanks to God if you practice good simple hygeine…washing your hands…having soap in all bathrooms.  Today I witnessed not one, but two people (IN THE SAME DAY!!) come out of a nasty public restroom and not wash their hands! The second was the most appalling. Not only did she not was her hands after exiting the bathroom stall, but yes I caught her lick her finger as she was viewing herself in the mirror! Ahhhhh! Please pray for the people in Panama. Please pray for our health (as well as mental sanity as this has become one of my biggest pet peeves and concern, rightly so!)

Please encourage your children (and other peoples´ children) to always wash their hands after using the restroom and before meals, etc. etc., and please be thankful for education. God bless you!

Our little neighbor Luris helping Kalea wash her hands.

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Back to Panama

by Colleen

So I´ve had several people ask me while I was home how hot the weather is in Panama. I always start with a laugh and say, ¨there is no temperature to gauge because it is the hottest hot you will ever feel.¨ Here´s some perspective… we safely arrived to Panama on the 9th of June, once we stepped out the front door of the air-conditioned airport building, in less than one minute of time we were all sweating. A large smile took over my face… welcome home I thought.

Kalea seems to have quickly adjusted back to the weather. One thing is for certain, she likes her cold water baths. In the states, it was like torture to get her into the luke warm bath… now as she sweats throughout the day, she is as content as a pig in mud to stay and play in the cold water (and even asks to bathe), at least 2 to 3 times in the day. She also was glad to get back into a hammock and take a snooze.

Kalea enjoying her cold water bath.

As for the past day, we have been enjoying the cool air that the rain brought on. The cool damp air certainly makes the day more bearable, although clothes take a lot longer to line dry (up to a week). I will try to avoid  putting my underwear in the oven to get it dry!

Thank God for the awesome time we shared with friends and family back in Florida, South Carolina, and Canada! Thanks for safe travel! Thanks for smiling familiar faces to greet us at the airport!

Love to you all!

Even our friend´s dogs try to keep their feet dry after the rain.

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Violence

A few weeks ago, I went to church and heard a sermon about David´s initial military campaign, how he began with a very small group which ¨understood the times¨ and were capable to lead. It was a weekday. The ¨preacher¨ was a conflict resolution specialist sent from Colombia by The Mennonite Central Committee in hopes to organize a peaceful resistance and ultimately a resolution to the to the invasion and theft of indigenous land and property by Latinos, a problem common to nearly every indigenous community in Eastern Panama, but in this case, specific to Río Platanares, Río Hondo, and Majé where violence began in 2004 and has escalated this year to a frightening level. The indigenous want to be left alone, and the Latinos want the indigenous´ wood, specifically endangered Rosewood, which, although prohibited by law for commercial exploitation, is being removed and smuggled to China by the ton every day. The profits seemingly justify the blind eye and hush money. That sermon, which focused on the fact that a small group can make a big difference and not on anything military, led into a weighty discussion.

The congregation that day was small, 20 leaders and pastors from the affected communities. I sat on the back row with Alquilo Opúa, the elected leader of the community Majé. He seemed focused and pensive, and although he spoke few words, not a syllable was wasted. Following the meeting, Alquilo stated that the meeting had helped him tremendously; it served as an inspiration of patience and hope for a peaceful solution, and he left resolute to restrain the anger and wrath of community members while every possible legal route was explored to make peace. Tireless concerted effort by the communities, pastors, and legal team resulted in peaceful protests, news coverage, and a bag full of promises by authorities to enforce the laws which already exist. There was even an audience with the International Commission on Human Rights in Washington in which Panamanian authorities read their existing laws and vowed to uphold them.

But the logging continued. There is only one entrance to the conflict area, such that one lone policeman could have easily enforced the law as it exists. Everything was attempted: meetings, helicopter visits, more meetings, promises, formal legal accusations, news media, meetings, promises, meetings, and promises.  The Corruption Perceptions Index of Transparency International gives Panama a 3.3 out of 10, ie, they beat Somalia but lose to Ghana, thus, there appeared to be no legal route. Rosewood is just worth too much money for honesty and politics to coincide. The loggers had a closed door meeting in the office of The National Environmental Authority, which should be enforcing the law in conjunction with the police, yet the logging continued.

Alquilo, pastors, and other community leaders could no longer suppress the frustration of the people. It was decided to detain and destroy equipment, harming no one. Three bulldozers, a tractor, and a pickup were captured and set ablaze, sending a clear message and halting work immediately. The men entered an abandoned logging camp and were terrified to find live munitions for assault rifles. On another mountain, at least one bulldozer and work team stubbornly remained. The community was told by officials that all logging had ceased, but they decided it would be prudent to inspect for themselves. They headed back up the mountain, found a tractoring operating, and approached.

Shouting over the grumble of the diesel engine, the men demanded that the driver abandon his equipment and flee so that they could continue with their obvious intentions to burn the equipment. Then, from the nearby forest, a distinctive crack overcame all noise and Alquilo dropped to the ground. The ensuing firefight wounded several Latinos which immediately fled deep into the forest, leaving the tractor operator behind. The men demanded he too leave the scene, but he appeared to reach for something. He was carrying a pistol. He was shot to death. The first shot which initiated the ambush was discharged from a 12 gauge shotgun. The spread covered Alquilo´s upper torso, neck, and face. Although no bones were broken, no shot penetrated his brain, and no organs were damaged, one single ball sliced his jugular vein, and he bled to death.

Prior this year, the community had determined that their cemetery was too far, and Alquilo had led them to choose a new location. He stated in public and private that he would be the first to use the new location, accurately predicting his own death. He was buried there on Sunday. Alquilo Opúa is survived by his widow and six children.

Contrary to being resolved, the situation has escalated. The chiefs of many communities have realized that they share the same battle and are uniting against the loggers and land thieves. Both sides are gathering arms and lawyers and have publicly declared their willingness to shed more blood. An ultimatum has been set by the indigenous communities. Please keep this situation and the affected people in your prayers. Please play that the hearts of the authorities will be swayed towards justice. Please pray that a peaceful solution will be found to resolve this situation once and for all.

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Cowboys and Indians, part II

The old west had a lot more than just cowboys. There were also traders… pelts, jewelry, and buffalo come to mind. Our buffalo is wood… present in large quantities where the ¨lazy¨ Indians have failed to exploit it to date.

A grown man cries in front of a small audience, covering his face in unnecessary shame. His name is Diogracias (literally, GaveThanks). The audience is composed of pastors and church leaders from several Wounaan communities along with Ricardo Esquivia, a conflict resolution specialist and lawyer from Colombia. Diogracias is trying to recount a recent visit to his family´s communal lands, last year virgin forest, this year pillaged and burned by Latinos to extract the precious rosewood, legally prohibited to harvest but easy enough to get out of the country with a bribe. Big money. Black market.

These people talk of hopelessness now with good reason. They began with their local mayor trying to solve the problem peacefully when it started this summer. Two months later, no solution, tensions are high, they´ve climbed the political ladder and found corruption in the highest ranks, promises from national ministers, helicopter flyovers, and still… the destruction continues. Apparently, the loggers now have legal documents to take out wood that is illegal on land that belongs to someone else.

The loggers have money. One of them was shot. Now their chainsaws are accompanied with high-powered arms. They have entered town and threatened the people. The people are afraid to go out of town and harvest their food… and now, they´re hungry, scared, and angry.

If it were not for the guidance of some church elders, there would already have been more bloodshed. The communities, Río Hondo and Río Platanares, have set an ultimatum for March 15th. Please pray for this situation.

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Cowboys and Indians

We all know stories of the Wild West, the vast and primitive frontier sparsely inhabited by misunderstood natives and conquered by the brave, pioneering settlers. That began at least 200 years ago, much longer if you consider that what is now the East was once ¨West¨, and it is considered history, although the repercussions are very much felt today. Here in Panama, it is happening today, and all the tales that you can imagine in the history books come to life.

2 days ago Jerónimo Rodríguez Tugrí, of the Ngäbe people, was shot dead by police in San Felix, Panama, a long way from where we are. So just like in days of old, the cowboys have a consolidated government and armed forces while the indigenous do not… nor did these indigenous brandish bows and arrows or arms of any kind. It was a passive protest. We happen to be staying in the city fairly close to the presidential grounds and were witness to 2 days of protests in the streets. ¨President Martinelli is an assassin!¨… ¨The community is not for sale!¨ were amongst the slogans shouted by the crowd of mostly indigenous with some educated Latinos.

The Ngäbe lands are on the other side of the country from us, but there are even more difficulties with the Emberá, Wounaan, and Kuna tribes where we work.  In the Platanares and Hondo rivers, an invading Latino logger was shot in the leg recently by community members. Others Latinos were kidnapped and held in hopes of resolving the differences. Considering the history, it will be an uphill battle for the indigenous to maintain what is rightfully theirs. Please pray for them.

I received a call from Erik this evening. He is my trusty informant amongst other things. Recently, our neighbors (literally… most of the people that live in our immediate vicinity in Catrigandí) were ordered by the government to leave the land they were working after the rice harvest. What they call ¨national land¨ actually belongs to the Kuna (of course they know this). These neighbors are not landless peasants… they already have farmland which they are destroying with bad farming practices. Nevertheless, true to their nature, they went the other way down the road and invaded some other ¨national land¨. So Erik informed me that if we want to come home, we should drive through at night, because that is our only hope of getting by the road block that the Indians are doing in protest of our neighbors attempted real estate acquisition.

Sometimes I´d like to saw our house into pieces and tote it down the road to live with the Indians again… but I guess we´re here for a reason.  … We leave this Sunday for Yaviza (the end of the road) and then upriver to visit communities. Thank you for your prayers.

Love in Christ,

alan

ps here´s a video of the protest in Casco Viejo next to the President´s House and for those in a lighter mood… Kalea picking coffee from a tree I pruned behind the house.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUFN02MhF_c&rel=0]

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Xi_PYENa54&rel=0]

 

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Gettin´ Learnt, Going to Jail, Back on the Streets

Some more random ongoings…

¨Panama ranks a dismal 129 out of 139 on quality of primary education despite ranking 26th overall on primary education enrollment rate (i.e. they go to school, but don’t learn anything!). Panama ranked 128th on overall quality of the education system, 129th on quality of math and science education, and 109th on quality of management schools,¨ according to the World Economic Council. This reality has become evident to me in all facets of everyday life here.

Oh… that explains it. My 15 year old apprentice, Eric, seems to be one of the smarter, more open-minded people I´ve encountered… maybe because he´s avoided Panama´s dismal education system since graduating from the 2nd grade. What´s the good news? Well, despite my previous grumblings about ¨the system¨ back home (and not to justify its many faults), I am appreciating the good ole USA more than ever… and missing it awful bad.

It was 11:00pm and we´d done a late night at the Mission Clinics International office in Higueronal. I had 2 sacks of trash I had collected from my neighbors. We do this regularly because when they burn their trash, all the smoke from the smoldering plastic settled in the bottom where we live. I stopped, put on the hazards, opened the rear door, and tossed my neighbor´s trash into the undefined scatter on the side of the road. Reaching for the other bag, an oncoming car screeched to a halt… a flashlight blinded me. ¨What are you doing?¨ It was one of those dumb questions that made me realize that maybe I was doing something wrong. ¨Just tossing out my neighbors´ trash.¨ ¨What´s in the bag?¨

night or day… I´m not convinced about the safety or practicality of trash fires at our dump

 

can you spot the ¨no throwing out trash¨ sign?

So, long story short… It was the police. And I guess we do look a little out of place in our big, red, dirty, hoopty car. I think he thought he´d caught me disposing of a body or something, but after a little explaining and cross-checking Colleen´s and my story, they told us we could leave.

¨So wait,¨ I said, ¨Is it ok or not to throw out my and my neighbor´s trash here?¨ ¨No… but if you´re going to do it, set it on fire.¨ ¨Goodnight.¨ …and nobody went to jail.

Now, I´m trying to establish this road committee in Catrigandí so that we have a street instead of a 1.5 mile mudhole to our home this coming rainy season. The representative and legislator encouraged us in the formation of this committee to ¨protect our road from the wood cutters.¨ Of course, as soon as the big shot woodcutter came, and we tried to apply the rules we made, he brought the representative and legislator´s secretary and the police to defend the woodcutter. [Did I mention that the legal/justice system is ranked 109th?] And what do uneducated, disenfranchised people do in such a situation? The majority tuck their tails and roll over… But not my neighbor, Justo. He´s awesome! Unfortunately, one community member and a gringo is not a particularly favorable showing. Still, the woodman has ceded considerable ground and donated a few $k in materials and labor to the cause. Last year, he just destroyed the road and left. In his defense, no one complained to him, so how would he know?. That´s typical here. So all this means more days in the sun for me, directing the equipment and laborers.

[youtube=http://youtu.be/yGMaDtUMJ2s&rel=0]

[youtube=http://youtu.be/oeiPpXdOP_k&rel=0]

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Just Another Ordinary Day By Colleen

Blanca resting after a busy night

This is my home and I have to protect it, I say to myself with a chuckle. (Yes, to all you Home Alone groupies out there, more the reason to laugh). I start throwing rocks with a tizzy of snorts and grunts. Anyone viewing this ordeal from afar would think simply I was possessed, thankfully I am not, but just OVER babysitting for Pastor Einer´s dog in heat!

The once appalling rock throw that every Panamanian knows and does comfortably with no remorse is now my new standard. Not only are these suitors trying to get to this female, but when they do, they potentially tear up the fencing, which lets the chickens in, which like to eat all the starters of vegetables we are trying to grow!

It´s also quite ironic that in the states I practiced as a licensed Veterinary Technician for some time, but yet I know nothing about the heat cycles of dogs…I guess spaying and neutering is much more common than the latter. I am very thankful for the push to spay and neuter pets in the states, and fortunately there is a program here in Panama called Spay Panama (check out their website at www.spaypanama.org) . They not only have a clinic in the city, they have fundraisers to raise support  to spay and neuter pets out in the countryside which is where people either don´t have the money, or the education to understand the importance of it. I´m hopeful that in the future we will start a fundraiser of our own to support the cause and trend in our community… Please remember to spay and neuter your pets!

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Feliz Navidad

 

Girlesa [in heavily accented English]: This is your first Christmas in Panama?
Colleen [nodding]: Yes
Girlesa: I´m so, so sorry.
It´s hard to get into the Christmas spirit here in the humid tropics, but we did our best. In the city, the long-time American presence has left cultural impositions such as Santa Claus, and even the inflatable snow man is not unheard of, but we decided to test our fare as far away as possible.

The road to Yaviza was paved 3 years ago with much excitement and fanfare. Today, many sections are destroyed. We gave a ride to a hitchhiker who turned out to be a school director. He said he had words with the contractors. ¨If you want to know how to build a road, go look at what the Americans did. They built a highway over the water and it works just fine. Go look at it. You can´t even build one on land!¨

Accepting an invitation to the end of the road, Yaviza, for a conference and dinner for indigenous church leaders, we navigated the recently paved and recently destroyed interamerican highway… yet another victory for incompetence and corruption. In addition, Yaviza has a new $17 million water system… and although there was reliable water previously, now there is not. But it was totally worth it for the harmonica hoe-down show-down that erupted during the evening worship service.

On Christmas Eve, we invited our closest neighbors over for dinner, to see a slide-show and movie of Jesus´ birth, and to read scripture and sing together. We also couldn´t help ourselves and bought a bunch of junk at our local Chinese owned store for Chinese Christmas. It took a while for folks to warm up and get the idea, but before it was over, farmers were stealing flashlights, and the pastor stole a box of Cornflakes, pronounced ¨con-flay¨ here. Lots of good laughs. We also took advantage of a bank of sand that the flooding river deposited and introduced the game of ¨horseshoes.¨

under our house during Chinese Christmas.

Christmas Day was lonely. We missed family a lot and could do little to distract ourselves. We ate leftover rice and chicken and lots of oranges. Kalea got a plastic kitchen with plastic food that some friends in the city gave to us. She really enjoy it, but right now she seems more into the plastic farm animals that Colleen stole from the pastor that allowed him to steal the Cornflakes. I gave Colleen some candle holders that I made with wood and paint can lids, and Colleen gave me massage coupons and candy. I´m glad we could share a Christmas with our neighbors, but I sure hope we can be at home with family next year.
Happy New Year,

alan

[youtube=http://youtu.be/sVc477PxK0M&rel=0]

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