Sleeping in the doghouse (plus a picture of Kalea)

I know what you´re thinking. Sure, we just returned from the couples retreat that I mentioned in a previous letter, so we should be running on a fresh set of spark plugs with a new look on life. Well, I´m not in the doghouse for bad behavior. Like so many dogs, I´m in the doghouse because I´m covered with… ticks!

click on the picture for a larger, more disgusting view of this single blade of grass

Apparently, cutting down all the jungle and turning it into pasture affects the ecology, so every dry season, which coincides with the only time to measure the lowest flow rate of spring water sources for aquaducts, all the pastures and everything that passes through gets covered in ticks; all shapes and sizes of ticks, ¨garrapatas¨ as they´re called here, literally ¨clawfeet.¨

This slick 2¨pvc pipe was lightly brushed against the blade of grass. Can you imagine how well they grab onto clothing? Maybe I will douse myself in kersosene next time.

One would think that ticks are dumb, but these here have figured out how to locate the most frequently used paths and congregate by the hundreds or even thousands on the tips of grass blades and twigs. When something touches the grotesque blobs of ticks, those on the outside latch on and they quickly disperse themselves over the object… or person. I´m quite certain that ticks must have evolved after creation because they are clearly minions of the devil. Enjoy the cold back home!

if this doesn´t get your mind off those nasty bloodsuckers, nothing will. Watermelon does taste better in a rubber ducky.

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The amazing, marvelous, unprecedented, … and ancient contraption you’ve all been waiting for !!! (and a picture of Kalea)

Neighbor Esteban and grandson Erick put the machine to the test while Luris, Colleen, Kalea, and a host of others not shown look on.

“There must be some reason that no-one has ever introduced corn-shellers into rural latin america,” my dad said. I agreed. Shelling corn by hand, or beating the grains off with a stick with all the cobs in a net bag, the traditional way, is a lot of work. And, after all, corn-shellers have long since become relics in the U.S., but I figured it was worth a try. I’m excited to say that we were wrong. We hastily built a box and debuted the corn-sheller recently when I heard that my neighbor had spent the whole morning shelling corn by hand with his little old wife… and still had three massive sacks left to go. Less than an hour later, he was all done. So now people flock to our home wanting to view this marvelous contraption, invite us to parties, and humbly beseech us to consider renting the machine out for others to use. Their mouths gape open when we tell them that our machine could be over 100 years old. Obviously, this is just the beginning. Can you get hold of an old corn-sheller to send us? I promise it will no longer collect dust.

The Zuluagas, us, and a couple of girls that paraded Kalea around day in and day out.

We were treated to a wonderful weekend of teaching by Dr. David Hormachea from Chile at a retreat this past weekend. Thank you to Einer and Girlesa Zuluaga for taking us along.

Kalea seems to enjoy the sights and sounds of Catrigandi.

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Water, Water Everywhere…

Last time I came and started the house, we had good spring water 24/7. That was the wet season. Although the creek behind the house still flows steadily, the community water system is taxed beyond capacity, and during this month, we´ve had running water at the house for a grand total of about two hours. We´re the farthest up the river, but based on the system design, we´re the last to get water. The system is sized such that metering water is not economical and thus encouraging the conservation of water is difficult.

The hole has a 5 gallon capacity and takes several hours to fill. It serves a few families for drinking water only.

So our drinking water has been coming from a hole in the rock about 75 yards upriver. It would seem to be a setback, but this also means that our first major water project will be close to home. We’ve already visited new spring sources that are very close to the upper reaches of the community, which includes 14 homes with 5 or so occupants each. We have a green light from the land owner of the spring sources. The idea is to create a small feeder system and storage tank to serve the existing distribution system of these 14 homes. The tank will include an overflow into the principal line of the existing system which services the much larger community. In the coming weeks, we will revisit the springs, take flow measurements, map the proposed system, make a materials list and budget, take a community census, and hold a community meeting to verify that each household supports the project. We’ll help raise the funds and direct the system construction; the community will provide the labor. The system will cost a few thousand dollars. BarnabasX has agreed to partner with us to raise funds for this system. If you’d like to partner financially on this project, go to BarnabasX and make a tax deductible donation earmarked: Faith and Fruit- Catrigandi water project. If you’d like to come down and lend a hand, contact us. We hope to raise the funds asap and do the installation by May. Dios les bendiga.

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La Familia!

Colleen and Kalea arrived last night, and it´s so wonderful to be back together again. Kalea has a little more hair (and maybe I have a little less) and Colleen looks younger (what does that say about being away from me?) Our little neighbor, Luris, 4, can finally stop asking when Kalea will arrive, and we´ll do our best to settle in while I finish construction of the house. Thanks for all the words of encouragement during this challenging transition. And thank you Mom for not kidnapping your grandchild. We Love You and miss you already!

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BarnabasX

Check out these snazzy steps that he built out of rocks from our river… can you see the embedded jawbone?

Our time hosting Nick of BarnabasX has come to a close. It was a huge blessing to share time with Nick and enjoy his humor, insight, music, experience, and good ole hard work. Nick taught me a thing or two about tongue and groove flooring and treated me to a flood of nostalgia courtesy of his chasm of musical knowledge that includes all the hymns we grew up with. All the locals were so thrilled to hear a fiddle for the first time, we were invited to play at a small gathering of neighbors. We´re looking forward to future work with BarnabasX and have begun to cooperate to build a potable water system in Catrigandi. More on that soon! Paz y Amor.

Nick and I with the Gaitan family, our neighbors

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Vive El Feo, “Long Live the Ugly One”

I don’t advocate name calling, but our latest acquisition was begging for it. We decided that a car would help the efficiency of our work and be something of a safety net in an unwelcome emergency. Colleen’s criteria was air conditioning (very necessary in the city unless you want black diesel dust boogers) and my criteria was four-wheel drive (otherwise we still couldn’t get anywhere close to our house.) El Feo is an ´86 Mitsubishi Montero whose owner, an old Ecuadorian man, vowed sincerely that he couldn’t bear to get rid of the car, but his grown children were mistreating it and his leaky roof needed replacement. After several redundant office visits and 1 full day of bureaucratic nonsense, Nick and I were cruising out to the countryside, title in hand and the shrunken head still hanging in the rear window (really). El Feo has custom wiring. For instance, the bright/dim switch is of the old foot-operated style, yet is located about 12 inches under and left of the steering wheel next to 2 custom switches for the headlights and instrument panel lights. This means two things. 1) If the road is bumpy (most are) and your seatbelt locks, you cannot reach it. 2) If you miss the switch ever so slightly, you disable all the cars lights at full speed and terrify the family you’re hauling back from nighttime church service. Also, the electric locks function… at will… so the spare keys have come in handy. El Feo has very special fuel injectors such that any application of the throttle beyond the most gentle will shroud would-be pursuers in an impenetrable screen of black smoke (hoping to fix that soon). We’ve got 850 miles together under our belt and continue to burn more diesel than oil. I don’t like red cars, but this one is growing on me.

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Para adelante

We’re moving forward on all fronts… even more than we’d planned. The house is coming along nicely with the help of friends and neighbors. I’m not sure that the concept of finishing on time applies in this country, but as long as things keep moving in a positive direction we’ll call it success.  

Justo and I at the springbox intake for the Catrigandi water system

One surprise has been the lack of running water at home. The neighbors warned me that the water could be intermittent during the dry season. Actually, we have not had water in the tap since arrival. Scarcity is an issue, but politics is playing a heavy hand as well. Not to worry, that means that one of our first projects will be close to home. We’ve already scouted out a new source, and I’ll take flow measurements in the dryest season before designing the small system (about 14 houses) and beginning to seek funding.

Nick and Pablo harvesting rice by hand on the Ortega farm in Piriati Embera

Obviously, we’re anxious to get the house done, but after attending Sunday service in Piriati we received an invitation to help the Ortega family harvest rice. Debating what we should do, Nick pulled out our “quote of the day,” provided in advance by his friend, Laura. The quote, Proverbs 24:27  “Finish your outdoor work and get your fields ready; after that, build your house.” It was a scorching day in the rice field and a great experience.

 

           I must confess a lack of faith with regard to our baggage situation as Nick’s carry-on surpassed the stated limits by about a foot, but Nick assured me that Jesus loves fiddlin’ and would make him invisible, and now I’m a believer. The fiddle has been a huge hit, this being the first time that any of these folks has ever seen one. Nick even got invited to play at a huge vigil of 2000 indigenous people out in Sambu, Darien. Unfortunately, we couldn’t make that gig, but we continue to enjoy it closer to home.

I don’t have pictures, but Iwanted to share that the introduction of the antique corn sheller was an enormous hit; it probably belongs in the rural Panamanian history books. It was comical to say the least. I’ll share more on that when corn season rolls around.

Hasta pronto,

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Black Gold! the real deal.

El Dorado, the elusive city of gold in South America, has been discovered! More precisely, the anthropologists and archaeologists have confirmed that a thriving civilization thrived a long time ago in a land previously thought to be unthriveable. What was their secret?… Pyromaniacy, of course. They knew how to make and use charcoal.

 Ok. Here it is in a tiny nutshell (skip this section if you suffer from history-induced narcolepsy). 500 years ago Spanish conquistadores heard tale of a people that rolled their chief in gold and washed him in a sacred lake. This gave rise to the legend of El Dorado, the city of gold, and the lustful search was on.

orellana

where is my goofy metal hat?

A capable young man named Francisco de Orellana was sent down the Amazon via the headwaters below the recently conquered Incan empire, becoming the first European to visit that area. He was almost dead when he started with 50 other starving men (they had crossed jungle for 6 weeks), and they almost died, repeatedly. He did not die and made it back to Spain eventually where he impressed the queen with tales of gold, spices, and a thriving civilization. Naturally, she told him to go exploit it.

orellana bust

I love my hat!

He tried and died and was immortally petrified. Some other dude went to the same area, returned to Spain, and said that Francisco was a big liar; there were just a few huts and some starving indians. So it remained that way until around the 1950s when some scientifically inclined folks started poking around in the Amazon soil and found some intriguing stuff. It was largely ignored for years because it did not suit some other scientists who puffed up and said, “Not possible!” because it contradicted their PhD thesis. It is now accepted that an enormous civilization did in fact exist right where ‘ole Franky had said, with earthworks on par with the pyramids and an unrivaled agriculture based on a man-made soil. Moreover, it was there continuously from the time of Christ and does not show the stratification typical of other societies that were established and re-established due to war. So where did they go? Apparently, Francisco’s parting handshake (or maybe just a distant cough) was all it took to introduce disease for which the natives had no immunity, and the jungle swallowed them and their handiwork up as quickly as it is capable of today… except for the amazingly fertile soil they created, which persists and is used by the smattering of locals to grow their food.

Recently, the term biochar was coined to represent charcoal as a soil additive. What does it do for the soil, you say? A lot. And more importantly, how is it made? A lot of ways. The jury is still out, but there is already a lot of information out there and major institutions such as the USDA, Cornell, and UGA are a few of the folks on the biochar train here in the U.S. If you’re interested, the International Biochar Initiative is a good place to start researching. There are also a lot of backyard operations for the home garden and orchard.

 There are a lot of techy stainless steel contraptions out there, but, obviously, we’re looking for the most appropriate way to apply this age-old practice in rural Panama. In the spirit of “burn to learn,” we constructed a pit to make a little charcoal in Mountain Rest, SC. With the minimal application of science and forethought, this is what evolved:

step 1

Step 1: dig a pit (on an incline) making an inlet on the lower end (we used a cinder block) and a chimney at the upper end (all we could find was 2" steel pipe). That's Nick of BarnabasX

step 2

Step 2: build a little fire (for the burn to function in TLUD mode, we could’ve built the fire at the chimney end, but putting it at the inlet may have more potential to capture the gases (wood vinegar). We’re learning, remember.

step 3

Step 3: Pack wood into the pit.

step 4

Step 4: Cover the pit, seal, insulate, and wait. (We had some old roofing and insulation laying around. The colliers of old Pennsylvania used leaves and dirt back in the day with a little different methodology. We're thinking rocks, banana leaves, and dirt for Panama). We ran out of time and patience, so we didn't get a complete char... but we learned.

step 5

Step 5: Seal the inlet and chimney to stop the burn and allow to cool.

step 6

Step 6: Harvest the char!

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[Dang-gay]

The title serves as a pronunciation guide for dengue fever. I don’t want to hear you call it dingie or den-gooey or din-goo. AedesIt’s dengue, a.k.a. break-bone fever, a viral infection transmitted by a day-time mosquito, Aedes, and my recent souvenir from Panama. The good news or the bad news? Let’s get the bad out of the way. There is no cure. Symptoms last from a few days to a month and may include:

 Hemorrhaging, Death (may last more than a month), Feeling like your bones are breaking, Eye pain, Rash, Loss of appetite, Extreme weight loss (as seen on TV), Temperature fluctuations from 94 to 104 degrees (F), Passing out when trying to urinate and busting your face open on the back of the toilet and no one checking on you because you broke wind while unconscious so they assumed you were ok because crashing and subsequent flatulence are normal 3 a.m. bathroom noises, Repeated night sweats, Loss of control of bodily functions, Running out of clean pajamas and having to wear your wife’s maternity pants, Loss of pride and dignity, Extreme appreciation of family, Delirium, Dehydration, and Dry mouth.

 The good news is you’re much more likely to get hit by a bus busthan die of dengue. In fact, most cases produce flu-like symptoms at their worst, and many people never show symptoms at all. A little knowledge and/or common sense will prevent you from contracting dengue and getting run over by a bus. I think I was lacking in both on that fateful day when I rushed to visit a friend’s dad in the public hospital [read: trashy area in downtown Panama City] and did not dress properly or take any measure to protect myself while going to a place where sick people congregate en masse. I’m sure that’s where I got it. The Aedes thrives in trashy, urban areas and is a real home-body, usually traveling 50 or 60 yards at most from where it hatches, so outbreaks are localized and preventative measures, like not leaving stagnant pools of water around your house, sleeping naked in alleyways, or engaging in mosquito farming, are very effective on the prevention end of things.

 My learning experience should not deter you from visiting Panama or utilizing any public highway system, but I hope it has made you a little more informed and thus safer. Cuidate.

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Mi Casa es Tu Casa

I guess I’ll start this story from back in August when I travelled down to Panama to build our house. Destination: Catrigandí, a 30 minute walk towards Colombia from Piriatí, the reservation where I lived while serving with Peace Corps. It was slightly intentional and mostly fortuitous that we came into possesion of a 1/2 acre lot nextdoor to a local pastor that I had worked with previously. I mulled and doodled my way into a house design, and my dear friend, Matt Rhody, got most of the materials on site: lumber, rebar, rock, and sand. Everything had to be carried in the last 100 yards on shoulder because the road washed out. An unexpected blessing showed up in the form of Steve Bliss from Dead Wheat International Foundation. He picked me up at the airport, took me on a shopping spree, and then taxied us towards the homesite in Catrigandí. When faced with the prospect of toting cement, and anxious to lend his expertise and get the foundation squared off, Steve opted to employ his truck, really more of a snorkeled tank, to drive 1/2 mile up the river and into my backyard. I am grateful for this and for the generous help given by friends Drew Lebowitz and Bryce Chapman as well as my neighbors Isnel, Justo, Jorge, Samuel, Esteban, and Marcial… and of course the talented cook, Edalia. Even the kids helped out. Awesome neighbors. It was 25 days, 12 to 14 hours apiece, to go from nothing to getting the roof on. You’re welcome to come stay, but if you can hold off for another month, it’ll have a floor and walls… and maybe a hammock.[slideshow]

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